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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.